There are two beautiful water trail routes between these two towns. You have the old navigation route following the Grand Canal Barrow branch which takes you through the pretty village of Vicarstown or the natural river along the Barrow. The river was once used as the navigation but due to low water levels especially in summer it was decided to continue the branch line through Vicarstown to link up with the Barrow navigation in Athy.
Before starting out I like to stand on the old aqueduct and reflect on all that is around. Below is the river used for hundreds if not thousands of years as a trade route. From earliest times little boats plied their way up and down the Barrow River transporting goods. By 1790 the Barrow navigation was complete and in that year 16,000 tons of goods were transported by barge along the river between St Mullins and Monasterevin. The arrival of the navigation meant big changes in how goods especially agricultural produce got to market. Not so much by horse and cart anymore but much more by canal barge.
Looking upriver the Dublin Cork railway line crosses the waterway. The arrival of the railway signalled the end of the canals although they would hang in there for more than a century and a half. Below and all around is the network of roads. And as we leave Monasterevin by canoe on our way to Athy we will pass under the newest of the roads – the M7 Motorway along which is transported more goods in a day than there was in the finest years on the Barrow navigation. And finally look up at the beautiful blue sky criss-crossed by the vapour trails of the latest form of transport. Haven’t we come a long way in just over 200 years.
So as you head off downriver in you canoe you leave Monasterevin behind and it network of varied water, rail and roads. Moore abbey will shortly come into view on the East bank. This was for many years the home of the famous Tenor Count John McCormick. Hollywood stars and countless dignitaries stood by by the banks here outside the abbey and watched the water slowly roll by. The canoeing along this stretch is very gentle. The flow of the river will help you along. Keep an eye out for Kingfishers, dippers and egrets.
Bert House will come into view on the left with Castle Reban on the right. The castle stands on the site of the ancient city of Reban which is noted on Ptolemy’s map of the second century. What incredible history has passed along these banks!
Continuing along towards Athy we pass through rich lush green farm lands. It no wonder the national Ploughing championships are held on the nearby fields so often. The approach to Athy is noted first when the steeple of the church comes into view and the tall popular trees wave the welcoming canopies to cheer you along. Just before the bridge is Whites Castle and then under Cromaboo bridge you can tie up at the floating jetty on the East bank. Immediately adjacent to the river is the local museum which has some very interesting exhibits. The first is dedicated to Earnest Shakleton the famous Antarctic explorer and the second is all about the Gordon Bennett route. It was along this route in 1903 that the forerunner of today’s Grand Prix was run and there is excellent film footage on show of the race.
Athy hosts the Shakleton summer school each autumn and also a very energetic and popular Bluegrass festival each July.
Recommendations for a pint include a visit to O Brien’s which is a must. Glancy’s is a great haunt especially for some traditional music and Kane’s should be included for good measure also.
